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日期:20140807
餐廳:Toscanini 托斯卡尼尼義大利餐廳-新竹科學園區
品酒:德國Dr. Loosen訪台餐酒會
攝影:JJ
機型:Sony Cyber-shot RX100
資料:部份資料取自原廠、酒商、網路分享
延伸:【桃園|托斯卡尼尼義大利餐廳

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DS-3 

德國白酒的榮耀→Dr. Loosen‧路森博士酒莊標籤介紹

要喝Riesling,就會想起德國白酒的榮耀- DR. LOOSEN 路森博士酒莊,這是目前萊茵河流域Mosel地區少數仍舊堅持傳統,以頂尖葡萄園裡所種出最好的Riesling葡萄來釀造白酒的酒廠,Riesling在Mosel地區享有完美條件的土壤和氣候條件,因此能夠產出獨特地區風格的德國白酒。
德國釀酒業在上世紀二十年代登峰造極,當時許多德國白酒的佳釀,賣價甚至比法國波爾多一等葡萄園還要來的昂貴,但是七十年代來自德國的廉價酒大軍衝擊全球市場,德國葡萄酒市場因此崩潰,自此,德國酒莊一直在努力掙脫平價甜酒的國際形象,路森莊主巡迴各國就是為了找回愛酒人士對於優質德國白酒的傳統印象。路森家族於萊茵河流域Mosel地區種植葡萄來釀酒已經二百年,莊主Ernst Loosen 1988年接手後開始停施化學肥料及減產以降低葡萄樹生長期間的人力與技術干預,然而最重要的是,他轉向溫和的地窖做法,使葡萄酒靠著自然的力量發揮到淋漓盡致。

Dr. Loosen得獎記錄

《Germany Wine Guide》
評鑑為最高等級酒廠

《Hugh Johnson Pocket Wine Book》
評鑑為最高等級酒廠 ★ ★ ★ ★

《Germany's "WINEMAKER OF THE YEAR"(Gault Millau)戈米蘭美食指南》
評鑑為德國年度最佳釀酒師

《DECANTER MAN OF THE YEAR"2005,Decanter Magazine,Great Britain品醇客雜誌》
2005年品醇客雜誌年度風雲人物

《SWEET WINEMAKER OF THE YEAR", London International Wine Challenge倫敦國際葡萄酒挑戰賽》
年度最佳甜酒釀酒師

《World's Top 10 White Winemakers" Decanter (Erni is no. 4)品醇客雜誌》
評鑑Ernst Loosen為世界前10名白酒釀酒師

《World's most influencial wine people" Decanter magazine品醇客雜誌》
評鑑Ernst Loosen為世界上對酒最有影響力的人

《WHITE WINEMAKER OF THE YEAR", London International Wine Challenge倫敦國際葡萄酒挑戰賽》
年度最佳白酒釀酒師

《Award of Excellence", Wine Spectator》
Wine Spectator評鑑最傑出獎

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The Doctor is In: A Visit with the Mosel's Dr. Loosen(Source)

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Winding your way along the German Moselstrasse, tucked in between the curves of the river that the highway mirrors, and the impossibly steep vineyards, the picturesque villages whose names adorn some of the world's greatest Rieslings give the impression of timelessness.

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By comparison, the beginnings of the estate known as Dr. Loosen seems a bit more like a scene from Wayne's World, especially when you meet the bespectacled, long curly-haired and voluble Doctor himself.

Ernst Loosen was chosen by his father and grandfather to take over the family estate from among his siblings and other members of his generation more by process of elimination than by destiny. Coming back from college at word of his father's illness in 1988, he dragged his best friend Bernie Schug along to help him figure out what to do with his father's "little hobby" that grossed $250,000 a year and carried $500,000 worth of debt.

Loosen described the scene a few years later, after he and Schug had managed to figure out where the estate's 19 acres of vineyards were, and how to work all the ancient equipment in the cellar.

"My dad said, 'here's the winery, and here's my debt, too'" laughs Loosen. "I studied archeology. Bernie specialized in tropical pig disease. We were old hippies. We got this other guy from Tonga to come with us, and he was great at logistics. He was in college and said that his whole program was paid by the German state to help develop Tonga. He had a great relationship with the King of Tonga and used to organize booze for the king. We all lived together here in the house, and it was a great time. We continued college here. The door was always open. Sometimes I came home at 4 AM and tried to find a bed in this 18-room house without any luck. Friends told friends told friends. There was always a bed, always booze, always a party. Frankly I didn't know who these people were. It carried on that way until I met my wife in 1992. It became a little too much and my wife said 'OK you have four weeks to get everyone out.'"

"Then only Bernie was left," continues Loosen, "and my wife said 'What is up with this guy?' and I said 'He's the winemaker!' and she said 'OK, I don't care.' Bernie and me, we're the old donkeys here."

Loosen has not lost his reputation for partying, even after forty years. Indeed, several winemakers I know in the U.S. cheerfully warned me off going drinking with Loosen, which they said was a sketchy proposition at best.

But if Loosen has kept that reputation, it certainly has not been at the expense of what is now considered to be one of the best and most successful modern German wine estates, a reputation earned, as it were, with an equal amount of perseverance.

"In the beginning," remembers Loosen, "with me and Bernie, it was easy. We didn't have any money. We had an idea, but neither of us had been trained. My father was ill, and he was clueless anyway. He always had hired a winemaker."

"We developed it fast, we developed it enthusiastic. We were very passionate, very convinced. I wouldn't say we did everything right. In fact, it's better if you get the chance to do things wrong. You have to have your own experience. We learned more every year. I think 1993 was our first break-even year. And things have looked up ever since."

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下列依餐酒會出酒順序簡介基本資料

NO.1

雷斯玲氣泡酒 【DrLRiesling_InfoDrLSparklingRiesling_Info

Loosen Dr. L Riesling Sparkling N.V.  建議售價: 750ml/$750

德國氣泡酒的歷史悠長,自18世紀末期開始便統稱為"Sekt",絕佳的品質也使得德國酒揚名國際達數個世紀。路森酒莊雷斯玲氣泡酒由100%雷斯玲品種釀製,口感清新怡人、果香豐富;使用能保留更多果香的夏馬槽法(Charmat method)(在有壓力的密封不鏽鋼槽中進行二次發酵,之後再進行過濾及除渣後裝瓶。),釀製出節奏鮮明輕快、氣泡清透動人的優質氣泡酒,而親民的價格更贏得消費者的青睞。飄散出新鮮的蘋果、柑橘等水果香氣和迷人的蜂蜜氣息;綿密的慕絲氣泡在口中跳躍,帶著和諧的酸度,以甜美乾淨的尾韻作為結尾。清新綿密的氣泡口感,奔放豐富的新鮮果香,是款在任何場合都能開心享用的氣泡酒。

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NO.2

【Dr. Loosen的Dry Riesling 】

隨著生長季節的逐漸溫暖,加上更好的葡萄種植技術以及酒窖技術的改良,預期可使Mosel地區的Riesling葡萄成為酒體飽滿又均衡的干白酒,果實成熟度平均並帶有大量的酸度。生產一支酒體均衡的Riesling干白酒,必須對葡萄園種植的葡萄實行嚴格的管理以確認葡萄的熟成度,並使用100%無黴菌感染的葡萄,經長時間使酸度軟化,變化出豐富的香氣。最後再依照慣例做短暫的浸漬(8-12小時)使果皮自然發酵,以便從果汁中帶出更多的酸度,讓口感清爽。

Dr. L Riesling Dry 2010 雷斯玲不甜白酒;建議售價:750ml/$700

這款不甜白酒,充滿蜜桃跟白胡椒的香氣,清新的蘋果香隨後透出,再加上完美礦物氣息的尾韻,令人心曠神怡。

根據法籍顧問 Dominique 分享,其實並不是不甜,而是因為年份尚淺,多放幾年甜味就會出來囉,依版主JJ 的口味大概還要再三年才會可能喜歡上它><,在不甜的口感下,酸澀感較為強烈,是非常好的餐前佐酒。

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NO.3

Willamette Valley Pinot Noir 2009
維拉麥特山谷黑皮諾紅酒 ★(RP)90
建議售價:750ml/$1,600

鮮明的芬多精、覆盆子香氣,再帶出深色水果跟煙燻黑櫻桃的風味,香甜的尾韻久久不散。酒體飽滿,結構完美,是支優雅且印象深刻的美酒。

Willamette Valley維拉麥特山谷

【產 區 介 紹】
維拉麥特山谷的現代釀酒歷史可追溯到40年前,三位加州戴維斯大學的天才學生,他們深信美國奧勒崗州的涼爽氣候是個相當完美的葡萄種植地。
從1965年至1968年間David Lett、Charles Coury及Dick Erath三人為了打破各方都相當不看好奧勒崗州是個良好釀酒地區的想法,而前往北維拉麥特山谷證明他們獨到的見解。然而他們證明了他們是對的。現在維拉麥特山谷被公認是世界上種植頂級黑皮諾與灰皮諾最好的葡萄產區之一。

【位         置】
位於維拉麥特山谷面積5200平方公里。周圍環繞著維拉麥特流域,從波特蘭的哥倫比亞河經南過塞勒姆(Salem)流至尤金(Eugene)附近的卡拉普亞山脈(Cascade Mountains)。喀斯開山脈與海岸山脈(Coast Range)分別為東西的兩個不同邊界。

【氣         候】
總體而言氣候溫和。冬季涼爽潮濕,夏季乾燥溫暖。單年超過華氏90度約5至15天,每25年才會遇到一次氣溫降至華氏0度以下。降雨大多在秋末、冬季及春初。每當溫度降至最低點時,維拉麥特山谷則降下平均5至10吋高的積雪。
這種結合了沿海與溫和氣候的條件成就了包含黑皮諾等葡萄品種的理想生長地。在葡萄生長的季節,維拉麥特山谷的暖日涼夜特性使得葡萄能釀出豐富又富有層次感的香氣與口感,及保留純正自然的酸度。

【土         壤】
維拉麥特山谷是一個由砂礫、淤泥、岩石及圓石所沉積而成的老火山谷,而這些沉積土壤約是一萬年至一萬五千年前由蒙大拿州(Montana)和華盛頓米蘇拉河(Missoula)沖積而成。最常見的火山土是從高300呎至地底4至6呎的喬瑞(Jory) 火山紅土,它提供了釀造葡萄的極佳排水系統。其他低於300呎主要都是由沉積所構成的土壤。

【葡 萄 品 種】
歐歇瓦Auxerrois、卡本內蘇維濃Cabernet Sauvignon、夏多內Chardonnay、多契托Dolcetto、加美Gamay Noir、格烏茲塔明那Gewürztraminer、格魯納維特利耶Grüner Veltliner,、馬黑夏爾伐克Marechal Foch、香瓜葡萄Melon、米勒土高Müller-Thurgau、蜜思嘉Muscat、歐托內蜜思嘉Muscat Ottonel、白皮諾Pinot Blanc、灰皮諾Pinot Gris、皮諾莫尼耶Pinot Meunier、黑皮諾Pinot Noir、雷斯玲Riesling、白蘇維濃Sauvignon Blanc、希哈Syrah、田帕尼歐Tempranillo

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NO.4

Ürziger Würzgarten Riesling Kabinett 2011 [DrLoosenWSKabinett_Info

烏齊格莊園‧精選甜白酒 ★2008(RP)90/2011 (RP)89 (WS)91;建議售價:750ml/2009‧$980

雖是成熟強烈的果香,卻還保留了新鮮的感覺。萊姆、百香果、哈密瓜和柑橘完美結合的熱帶果香,並帶著細微的香料味,此般複雜的美味令人驚艷。

這是版主 JJ 的最愛,還帶了一瓶上有親簽,啾咪!!!

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NO.5

Ürziger Würzgarten Riesling Spätlese 2011[DrLoosenWSSpatlese_Info

烏齊格莊園‧晚摘甜白酒 ★(RP)91 (WS)93;建議售價:750ml/$1600

鼻間可以感受些許的辛辣味道,入口後卻是純淨的柑橘香氣,宛如漂亮的初生嬰兒。(Source

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餐酒會場實景分享~

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